We are having the bible kindly posted to the site very soon by the origional Author (well the guy that collected all the info)
This will not be a link it will be the actual thing, it takes about 50 posts to do in total so please be nice and thank him if you find the information usefull

Hello, this is Danny Boy (aka Fred Luno, Flounder, ktm_50_dad and Dan Isaacs)...

This Bible was created on KTM Talk, so if there are a lot of references to that site, you'll know why. I don't have time to customize it to this site just yet, but I will if the mods/admins want me to. Here goes, I hope it doesn't bog your site down!

I HAVE TO TWEAK SOME STUFF, BUT HERE IT IS


HERE IS THE BIBLE IN PDF FORMAT
http://www.users.bigpond.com/steve.max/the-ktm-bible.pdf

Table of Contents:

Introduction: Welcome to KTM!

Chapter One: The Guru’s Guide To Clutching
1.1 Clutch Removal: Dig that clutch out and take a look at it
1.2 Clutch Adjustment: Clutch Stack Analysis By Alex Manga
1.3 Clutch Adjustment: Understanding the Spring Clutches and you’re options
1.4 Reassembling your clutch: Torque Specs and Proper Loctite applications
1.5 Fluids: ATF? Gear Oil? What do I use! And what is Two2Cool????
1.6.1 Kickstarter O-Ring Leaking?
1.6.2 Kickstarter "Double O-Ringing"

Chapter Two: The Guru’s Guide to Gearing & Brakes
2.1 Gearing: Gear Ratio Chart
2.2 Applications: What to use, and when?
2.3 Chain: What to use?
2.4 Maintenance: What chain lube to use?
2.5 Disc Brake system analysis
2.6 Disc Brake system maintenance

Chapter Three: The Guru’s Guide to the Air, Exhaust and Fuel Systems
3.1 Tech Help: How do I jet my carb?
3.2 Jetting: What jetting should I run?
3.3 Maintenance: Clean That Carb!!!
3.4 Temp Changes: What jetting to use in 10 degree weather? :hihi:
3.5 What is K100?
3.6 What Gas should I use? Mixed at what ratio with what oil?
3.7 Keep that filter clean!!!
3.8 Replack that Silencer!!!

Chapter Four: The Guru’s Guide to Suspension
4.1 Set up suspension for safety!
4.2 Seat Height Adjustment
4.3 Forks: Adjust and maintain
4.4 Rear Shock: Adjust and maintain

Chapter Five: Liquid Cooled Bikes & The Electrical System
5.1 Water Pump FAQs
5.2 Keep It Cool!: Coolant Levels and Tips
5.3 Electrical System Analysis
5.4 Testing Stators and Coils

Chapter Six: The Guru’s Guide to fixing the dreaded “BOG� :eek:
6.1 What causes Bog?
6.2 What are some minor fixes that can be done first?
6.3 Now what needs to be done???

Chapter Seven: Odds & Ends
7.1 Best Tires?
7.2 Best Handlebars?
7.3 Best Hand Grips?
7.4 Best Pegs?
7.5 What the hell is a frame brace? Is it legal?

Chapter Eight: The Kids Wanna Ride with Experience and Style!
8.1 Pimp That Kid!!!
8.1.1 MotoCross Schools: Manga’s Camp for Kids!
8.1.2 Drills to run at home
8.1.3 Safety Gear: What is needed?
8.1.4 Custom ID Plates for Chest Protectors (see 8.2.1)
8.1.5 MX Toys, they gotta have em!
8.1.6 KTM Hardparts make anyone look smooth!
8.1.7 Kids Mags & DVDs (Safe for kids)
8.2 Pimp That Bike!!!
8.2.1 Most Recommended Custom Graphics Companies
8.2.2 Powdercoat or Paint?
8.2.3 Anodize to Complete the circle!
8.2.4 Custom Seat Straps and Seat Covers

Chapter Nine: Give a little back - Become Part of Our Team: Team KTM Talk
9.1 Why Should I join Team KTM Talk?
9.2 When Should I join Team KTM Talk?
9.3 How Do I join Team KTM Talk?

Chapter Ten: Special Messages, Tips, Tricks and advice from the Gurus
10.1 Alex Manga
10.2 Todd Heemsbergen
10.3 Ken Carter
10.4 Hacksaw
10.5 Mike Burkeen
10.6 Doug, Pam & Darren Walsh

Chapter Eleven: AMA Racing MX, HS, SX, AX, XC, Drag etc etc etc
11.1 How do I get started?
11.2 What district am I in?
11.3 Where are the tracks in my area?
11.4 What bike do I need, and what class are we in?
11.5 AMA Rules
11.6 Tracks Across the Country! ~By KTM Talk user David Hanscom :cool:

Chapter Twelve: Miscellaneous
12.1 Tips and Tricks to make your life easier
12.2 Helpful links
12.3 Spare Parts Bin
12.4 Tools Needed & Torque Specs
12.5 Here’s some pics for your kids to check out!
12.6 Meet your fellow KTM Talkers!
12.7 Math Conversions for In to mm, oz to mL etc
12.8 Lacing up your own wheels
12.9 Example of a top end rebuild :cool:
12.0 Read your spark plug

Conclusion: Enjoy :cool: Don’t forget where the info came from

Credits: Who to thank :cool:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------


Introduction: You’re New Bike (Or New “Used� bike)

The KTM Mini Adventure:

The KTM Senior Adventure:

The KTM SX Junior:

The KTM SX Senior:


Welcome to the world of KTM Minis :cool: Now that you have your KTM, the best thing to start with is tearing into it and making sure it is up to snuff for your little rider/racer. There are a few things to watch out for/adjust when buying new and used. I will outline all of the necessary steps needed to help you along your way in this report. Good Luck and Enjoy!!!

Chapter One:The Guru’s Guide To Clutching
Alrighty then, lets start off with the most enjoyable part of your bike, the dreaded 3 shoe spring washer clutch (SX Sr & Jr). Clutch maintenance is one of the most important factors in keeping the bike running strong. If you slack on the clutch, the bike will slack on your kid. There are many ways to adjust the power “hit� of this clutch. From a smooth hitting clutch, to a high revving wheelie machine that hits harder than Tyson.

1.1 Clutch Removal: Dig that clutch out and take a look at it!

Step 1 Drain oil and remove clutch cover.

Step 2 Remove clutch nut. You can do this with two methods. One is to buy a piston stop, and just insert it into the spark plug hole. Another is to use a small screw driver to slip through the holes in the clutch basket and the holes in the primary gear. Then install your clutch puller (KTM or aftermarket). Make sure to insert the bolts as far as you can, to insure they are evenly aligned. (see fig)

Note: If you can not get your clutch to "Pop" off, heat the hub and cool the crank shaft... it will pop :cool:

Step 3 Disassemble your clutch completely. Inspect all parts to keep an eye on wear and tear. If your washers have more than 8 hours of use on them, replace them. If your spacers are grooved, replace them. Thoroughly clean off all loctite from all bolts and crank end threads.


Step 4 (spring clutchs can omit this step) Clean each and every washer. Any gunk left on them, just means the hit will be that less consistant. Many people scrub each and every washer. I just put them in a 20 oz pop bottle with gas in them, and have the kids kick it around for a while :hihi: Then I wipe them clean. One simple trick when only cleaning the washers and not replacing them, is to remove the entire stack from the clutch, and run a zip tie through it, this way, you can put them back on in the exact configuration they were put on.

Step 5 (spring clutches can omit this step) Using your digital Micrometer, measure each stack before re-assembling your clutch. Using shims (flats) try to get all three stacks to measure as close as possible. The best you will be able to do will be +/- .003�. If you get it within that margin, you’re set :2thumbs:

1.2 Clutch Adjustment: Understanding the “Clutch Stack� (Pro Sr & Pro Jr)

NOTE: These recommendations are for the 01 - 05 LC Clutches, I have no experience with the 06 drum and how it effects the clutch stack, so the stacks may vary a tad if you have an 06 drum!!! (anyone who would like to help me out here would be greatly appreciated!!!)


Alex Manga’s Clutch Analysis, this is all you need to know about your clutch :2thumbs:

Cupped washers= ( or )
Flat washers/shims= I or / or l
.xxx" = the total stack height, from one end to the other in inches

You will see all kinds of different recommendations for clutch washer configurations. All I know is what we use, or have used.

This is what we have used on our Sr bikes with great success.

PRO SENIOR STACKS:

Beginner

[OPEN FOR SUGGESTIONS] Pitdad? Ken? Alex?

Beginner/Intermediate:

(())(())(())()//=.642"
Hits solid, doesn't fade fast, and is mild enough for a beginner - midpack rider
(Ken Carter stack, C & C Racing formerly PVK Racing)

(())(())(())((//=.650"
Hits a little harder, but pretty much the same as the above. Last a tad longer without fading.
(Stock KTM Stack from the factory)

Intermediate/Advanced:

(())(())(()(()(//=.655"
The best stack we have used, hits hard, doesn't fade, and lasts forever :cool:
(Alex Manga of 50ccparts.com stack)

PRO JUNIOR STACKS:

(())(())(())()(/=.650"
Solid stack for an aggressive rider.
(Ken Carter stack, C & C Racing formerly PVK Racing)

(())(())()()///= .645"
Solid stack with the least amount of slippage.
(Alex Manga of 50ccparts.com stack)


(If anyone has any clutch stacks they want to share for the MA, SR Adv and Pro Jr, PLEASE DO! Thanks! )


1.3 Clutch Adjustment: Understanding the Spring Clutches and your options
The springs in the Adventure series models are much more simple than the washer stacks :hihi: All you have to do is change your oil once and a while, and let ‘er buck. But, if you want more out of your Adventure clutch, you have options. You can “shim� the clutch. That simply means, putting a washer or two on the spring bolts along with the spring. The washer can go on either side. This will increase your stall speed and make the stack “hit� harder. I recommend starting with a .040� and going from there. If you’re rider still wants more, throw a .020� as well. If it’s still not enough, throw out the springs and replace with a complete washer stack like the LC bikes. Note: This is not AMA legal.

More info on this:

quote:

---

Originally posted by KTMSprocket:
Tall capable 6 year old (nearly seven) on a Pro Senior.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Many of you will have read my answers to posts about running Mini Adventure springs in the Pro Senior clutch. After an event this weekend I thought I'd give you an update on our experiments. This weekend we had an open Enduro. MoToToM raced in the non-competitive class (we call Nippers here)(Nippers means little kids). He graduates to competitive class when he turns seven.

An Enduro is basically a Hare Scramble through the Bush (woods). On this particular day, there were three teams of PW50s, MAs and Pro Seniors. The Pro Seniors ran together at 20 second start intervals.

Anyway. We ran the Pro Senior with the MA springs installed in an otherwise stock bike. My observation was this.

The Pro Seniors that were in stock config with cupped washers ran a poorer race. In the twisty narrow tracks bounded by trees the riders were having to throttle blip constantly to control the bike. This meant that burts of uncontrolled speed occurred while leaving corners. This meant that the riders were either slipping out of line, or more dangerously were sent toward trees.

Of course, this meant that they had to wash off speed constantly (usually with rear brakes). Our rider was able to keep the throttle rolled on slightly and therfore, the average speed per lap was higher.

Yes, the stock bikes sounded and looked spectacular but, actuall speed and control was lost relative our bike with MA springs. As we were running on 3 laps and on a cooler day, there were no heating probs for any of the bikes.

Our bike running the MA springs was able to stay on the gas in bumps and corners and therefore maintain line and control.

I have no doubt that this set-up is better for:

Enduro races
General riding
Riders new to Pro Seniors
Families who cannot do regular maintenance themselves

Note: This setup causes a slight bog under some circumstances. The bog is actually useful as it softens the acceleration. The bog clears easily though.

This is also a good set-up for introducing a rider to MX. When the gate drops, they can open up the throttle, but do not get the explosive start. This means, they get start practice, but they move to middle pack (assuming they are not new riders). As they progress you can shim the springs or move to a washer stack.

I hope this helps some of you who are dabbling with Pro Seniors for the above outcomes.
Cheers. J.

---

quote:

---

Originally posted by KTMSprocket:
I change the oil after a day out. It costs a few cents and takes five minutes.

I have one thicker shim in the clutch block under the bolt head to even things up and on our bike, as soon as you roll on the throttle the clutch starts to take up nice and smoothly.

779. The power issue is an interesting one. I'll try to explain it...but backwards....

Imagine the rider is at half throttle on the open track. The clutch is fully engaged and the engine working as it should. If you think about it, whether you had springs or washers in there, the clutch is fully engaged so there is no difference in HP output.

However, while stationery, as you roll on the throttle from zero throttle....in an average washer stack clutch the engne is allowed to reach higher revs before you reach the clutch stall speed (as it engages). This allows you to get closer to the power of the two stroke. So, when the clutch does engage, the acceleration is greater if traction is maintained.

In the case of MA springs, the clutch stall occurs early and the engine is not in the power band. This means the bike has a slower less aggressive take off. As the rider rolls the throttle on, the power band is reached and the bike will act as if it has any other clutch in it.

Remember: I see a lot of people impressed by the Pro Seniors screaming and roosting. The plain fact is, unless the rider is highly skilled and able to keep average speed up....or the trackl is suitable....alot of the time, the HP produced by the engine does not contribute to forward speed because forward drive is lost through wheel slip. And as we all know - the throttle blipping used to control the bike - induces heat.

So...this is the point. The MA springs allow a smooth gentle action of the bike at lower revs, but this in turn allows the bike to be on the gas at low speed....keeping the bike in control rather than the freewheel - blast - freewheel - blast - freewheel - blast - freewheel - blast you hear at the track.

Lastly...If you want holeshots and explosive speed for capable riders, this is not for you.

On a personal note: I have tuned the bikes to bring MoToToM on in a very careful planned way. By coaching, saddle time and a properly set-up bike he has steadily built all his skills. Think about it......imagine if you were learning how to ride standing up over bumps, and the throttle was acting like an on-off switch. 8-)

I hope this helps...
Cheers. J

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quote:

---

There really isn't a whole lot of tension on the spring. I usually just lay the clutch cover spring side down, remove the C-clip and press the shaft through with my hand. The spring will pop right out. I have done it this way every time and never had any problems.

Putting it back in is slightly more complicated so here is what I do step by step:
3. Place spring tab in hole on main gear
4. Try to hold the spring tab in place while pushing bottom spring tab into groove on clutch cover.
5. When step 4 fails use a maximum of five obscene words and take a drink of beer.
6. Repeat Step 4 and 5 until main gear is in place or until you have finished two beers. IT IS NOT RECOMMENDED GOING BEYOND TWO BEERS, OTHERWISE YOU MAY LOOSE THE SPRING WHEN YOU FLING THE CLUTCH COVER ACROSS THE SHOP.
7. Once you have the main gear in flip the clutch cover over and install C-clip.
8. Line the small gear up and push into place.
9. Make sure the assembly moves freely, so it doesn't lock up and break a tooth when you kick it over the first time on the bike.

the stock Oring is a 12 by 1,5
we use a 12 by 2
I now machine the cover on the inside for a seal
and leave the oring to seal out the dirt

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Chapter Two: The Guru’s Guide to Gearing & Brakes




2.1 Gearing: Gear Ratio Chart

Here is a gear ratio chart to help you decide what gearing you want for different applications:


2.2 Applications: What to use, and when?

quote:

---

Courtesy of JMJ Cycles:

Gearing

Motocross bikes are designed to make most of their horsepower in a certain RPM range of the motor. This RPM range is commonly referred to as the “power band�.

If the bike doesn’t reach this range or exceeds past this range you are not making the most of the power the motor has to offer. Your choice of gearing can help keep the motor in the proper RPM range, making you motor more efficient on more parts of the track.

While this is true for all motorcycles, it is critical on a 50cc automatic bike because you do not have the option to shift into another gear for different parts of the track.

Gearing refers to the size of the sprockets, both front and rear, that are installed on the bike. Look at a ten speed (or any of today’s multi speed) pedal bikes, those extra gears are not on there just to make the bike cost more. There is a range of gears for different circumstances. If you are on a steep hill, or maybe rough ground, you would be in a lower gear to make pedaling easier.

Try to start from a dead stop in 8th gear on a 10 speed bike. You will not get a very “quick� start. Now try going down a long flat smooth straightaway in 3rd gear, you will pedal your heart out but not go very “fast�.

Quick and fast are two different things. Dragsters are quick, race cars are fast. With an automatic bike you have to sacrifice one for the other because there is only one gear.

You’re driving me crazy.

Since your front sprocket is being turned by the motor it is referred to as the driving sprocket. It is the one that has the power delivered to it. The rear sprocket is referred to as the driven sprocket. It is the one being driven by the front sprocket.

The front sprocket is also referred to as the countershaft sprocket.

The combination of these two sprockets will determine your gear “ratio�. Your gear ratio is the number of teeth on the rear sprocket divided by the number of teeth on the front sprocket.

If you have a 48 tooth rear sprocket and a 12 tooth front sprocket you have a gear ratio of 4.00. 48 / 12 = 4.00.

This means that the front sprocket has to turn 4 times for every one turn of the rear sprocket. Since the teeth are the same size (they are connected by the same chain), this should make sense.

Got it? Good. Now we will go faster……..

So, with that in mind, a larger front sprocket would make the rear wheel turn more for every revolution of the front sprocket. Or, make the bike go faster at the same rpm of the motor. Just like switching gears on a 10 speed bike.

Or, let’s back up. Let’s also look at the rear wheel. If you were to make the rear sprocket smaller it would complete a revolution sooner, even with the same size front sprocket.


Making sense yet? Here is another way to look at it. Think of the front sprocket as a spool and the chain as a rope. For now, let’s pretend the end of the rope doesn’t connect to anything, it is just really long and is stretch out behind the behind the motorcycle.

For every turn of the front sprocket (spool) you will reel in as much rope as the circumference of the spool. The bigger the spool, the more rope that will come in with every turn.

For those of you who don’t remember, circumference is equal to 2*pi*radius. So for every turn of a 2 inch diameter spool you will get 2*pi*1 (radius is ½ of the diameter) = 6.28 inches of rope. But if you put a bigger sprocket on, let’s say 4 inches, you would get 2*pi*2 = 12.56 inches of rope with every turn.

So a bigger front sprocket is pulling more chain and making the rear sprocket (and wheel) turn more, which gives you more speed at the same rpm as a smaller sprocket would.

Okay, that should clear up the front sprocket but what about the rear sprocket. Well, it is the same thing only in reverse. The rear wheel is being “driven� by the front sprocket. Let’s pull the rope and pretend it is hanging around the rear sprocket. As we pull the rope, the rear wheel will travel a complete revolution for every turn (or trip around the circumference) of the sprocket. So a smaller sprocket will make a complete revolution sooner than a larger one.

Choosing the proper gearing

You want your bike to be as quick off the line as you can get it (starts can be EVERYTHING in a motocross race) but you don’t want to sacrifice anything in the fast straights.

To gear you 50cc bike correctly you need to listen to it on the fastest part of the track, this is usually the longest straight away. The bike should be at the very top of the power band (or even a little past it). If they are not winding the motor all the way out the gearing is too “tall� (gear ratio too high) for the track and the riders ability. With too tall of gearing you are losing the “jump� out of the start and every corner on the track.

If the bike is completely wound out 3/4 of the way down the fastest straight you are giving up speed down that straight away.

Since there are usually many more corners on a track than fast straights, it is usually best to run gearing that is a little too low than too high. This will get the bike off the line quicker and get the bike on the pipe sooner out of every corner.

Gearing on bigger bikes isn’t usually as critical but still should not be overlooked. The proper gearing for a manual transmission bike can make the difference in being able to clear a double or case it. If you can’t keep the bike in the power band coming out of a corner before a jump, try changing the gearing and it might make all the difference.

Changing sprockets

If you are not real serious about racing but still want to be close with your gearing you should at least change the front sprocket for different tracks and conditions. Changing the front is easier than changing the back and makes a bigger difference. In most cases simply remove the chain guard (or ignition cover) and using snap ring pliers remove the snap ring holding the sprocket on. Replace with different sized one and adjust the chain.

If you want to get real critical, you can change the rear or both. Changing the rear by 1 or 2 teeth can make a big difference for a kid who is attacking the track. The little bit of difference can pick up a bike length or two in a straight, which is enough to make a pass.

When changing the rear sprocket you must remove the rear wheel (unless you use a split sprocket, JMJ Cycles can get these). There is more work changing the rear sprocket but you can fine tune the gearing for the track. (Don’t forget to Loctite the bolts)

Additional Tips

-Have two different lengths of chain, one a link or two longer than the other. When you change sprockets you may find that the chain you are using will be too short or long with the different gearing. You will probably go through two (or more) chains in a season anyway and you just as well have the right size chain available when you change the gearing.
-You will also probably go through several sprockets. Buy different sizes now, before you need a new one and have then available for changes. Making them all last longer and they will provide the right gearing for any track.
-You don’t need a bunch of sprockets to have a wide range of different gearing. Two fronts and two rear sprockets offer many combinations to help most gearing situations. (see chart above)
-Keep notes of what gearing you ran on what track, this will help you have the right setup next time you go back.
-On a 50cc bike, the clutch will hit harder with lower gearing. The lower gearing will give the bike more torque resulting in a harder hit. Taller gearing will take some of the hit out of a clutch.
-On dry slippery tracks with lots of turns, taller gearing may help take some of the wheel spin out of the bike (see above).
-Don’t be afraid to change gearing during race day. Race conditions can make gearing changes a necessity. If the track gets rougher, dries up or the rider gets more familiar with the track are all things that may change the speed they are racing.
-DO NOT necessarily run the same gearing as other riders of different abilities. The fastest kid in the track should have the tallest gearing, because he has the ability to ride the bike that fast. A beginner rider will struggle with tall gearing because they do not have the torque to keep their momentum up in corners or hills.
-Listen to the motor and adjust the gearing accordingly.
-Gearing changes are completely AMA Stock Class legal and easy to do. Gearing changes will make the most of the motors horsepower and improve lap times, GUARANTEED!!

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quote:

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Originally posted by KTMSprocket:
Flounder...Great piece of work - wish I could get the guys that work for me to do this kinda stuff!!!

A small point though...as the internet is international, as you work on and fine tune this Bible, you may like to think about this.

eg. Octane ratings are stated differently around the world.....RON (or ROZ) PON MON etc.

Its only a minor thing, but as the bible is meant to reduce confusion it maybe an idea. Cheers...

J.

here is the table....

RON___MON____PON
90_____83_____86.6
92_____85_____88.5
95*____87_____91
96_____88_____92
98_____90_____94
100____91.5___95.8
105____95____100
110____99____104.5

* = KTM recommendation for stock engine

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quote:

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Courtesy of JMJ Cycles :cool:

Air Filter Cleaning


Cleaning the air filter is probably the most common and dreaded part of any dirt bike’s maintenance schedule. Both performance and engine life can be drastically reduced by neglecting this task. Here is the proper method to cleaning air filters and a few tips to make this chore a little less painful.

1) The most common solvent for the initial cleaning of an air filter is gas. Gas works well to break down the air filter oil which is what holds the dirt on the air filter. To get the dirt out, you most first get the oil out. Gas does work well for this but it is hard on the foam and the adhesives of the filter. Diesel fuel is not as damaging to the filter and does a great job of breaking down the oil. (I know regardless of what is said here, most people will still use gas to clean their filter. And I have done so myself for years.) There are also special solvents made to clean filters. PJ1 even makes an aerosol spray cleaner.
2) After the oil is thinned out, the next step is to get the dirt out. Use warm water and dish soap (like Dawn) to remove the trapped in dirt. Continue this process until you no longer get dirt out of the filter. Cleaning the filter in a Tupperware bowl will let you see how much dirt you are getting out.
3) Rinse the soapy filter out with warm water.
4) Light wringing of the filter and flinging the water out by whipping it in your hand will remove the majority of the water. Compressed air will also help remove some of the water (but be careful you don’t blow a hole in the filter). To speed up the drying process, the filter can be wrapped with paper towels then lightly twisted.
5) Once completely dry, you can apply the air filter oil. As mentioned earlier, the air filter oil’s job is to trap the dirt in the filter. The tacking oil will hold the dirt on the filter rather than letting it pass through the filter and into the carburetor. Apply the oil liberally and work into the filter. Lightly wringing out any excess oil.
6) Clean the air box out of any dirt.
7) Grease the mating lip of the filter and carefully install back onto the bike. Be sure to check that it is seated correctly.



Additional Tips

1) Keep a Tupperware tub full of air filter oil. Use this tub to dip the filter and wring out the excess oil back into. This will save time applying the oil and money on air filter oil.
2) Buy several air filters. Clean them all at once and keep some for back ups. It is far easier to go through the hassle of cleaning filters in bulk rather than one at a time. And by having clean filters on hand you will replace them more regularly. Store the clean filters in large Ziploc bags.
3) If you see oil in the bottom of your air box, you are leaving too much filter oil on the filter before installing it back on the bike. This oil can get sucked into the carburetor causing the bike to run poorly.
4) The paper towels that were used to help dry out the filters can be used to wipe out the air box.
5) Always put a clean rag in the air box when waiting for the filter to dry.
6) Grease can be used to help seal the center mounting bolt (if your filter has one) and in emergencies places where small cracks and areas where there is a poor adhesive seal. This fix should only be a temporary one and filters with cracks or poor adhesives should not be used and discarded.
7) When you are done cleaning the filter, use the solvent to clean your chain before throwing it away

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quote:

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Originally posted by Keebler:
Repacking the silencer:
Usually I repack the silencer about every four months, but this may vary do to your child’s riding habits and seat time. A new repack can not only quiet that little beast down, but give you some more power at the rear wheel. Your bike needs to breath!
At the same time, I usually take the pipe off at the head and inspect for any carbon build up. If there is any, carefully scrape away the buildup and reattach the pipe to the head.
Unbolt the screws at the end of the tail pipe and slide out the tube. Take the old packing off and dispose of it some place safe. After removal of the inlet side of the muffler clean the perforated pipe with a butane torch and wire brush.
Now you are ready to repack.
Usually the packing is a little long and you might need to trim them a couple of inches. Wrap the entire sheet around the core, in most circumstances it will be 1.5 to 2 wraps or so. Just wrap it fairly snug around the tube and then slide it in and bolt it up.
You can find packing material at your local moto shop or some even use pipe insulation.

Keebs

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quote:

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Originally posted by nsb:
So I'm dinking around working on lowering a Pro Sr...

1)swapped seat w/ our Mini Adventure. I think that was almost 1". Big difference.
2) Moved shock to lower position. Oddly enough, this is the rear of the two holes. I assumed it was the front, with the whole longer hypotenuse thing... Apparently not. I mistakenly thought our M.A. came on the shorter setting. I guess I'll move it back. This seemed to only gain about 1/4"-3/8" (measuring from axle nut straight up to rear fender)
3) adjusted the sag as much as it would go, and moved the forks about 1" up the trees. This was good for about an inch.

End result, seat is a good 2" or more lower and boy can ALMOST fit on it. :hihi: I think we can work with it at this height. :cool: Thought I'd share. Especially the part about which hole is the shorter shock setting. Good rookie info. I'd have sworn up and down that it was the other way around until Mikey Manga's bike showed up with the shock on the front setting, and I KNOW he's unshort. Had a conversation w/ tntsdad about it at Millville. Finally had a chance to do an A/B test and sure enough... :bath:

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Courtesy of JMJ Cycles:

Fork Oil Changes

Suspension

One of the most overlooked areas of motorcycle maintenance is the suspension. When people want to make a motorcycle faster they immediately think of modifying the engine. There are only a handful of people riding motorcycles that can get take a stock engine to its potential. Even then, it is only on certain parts of the track.

If your suspension is not adjusted or maintained properly you will have an ill-handling bike on all parts of the race track. If you want to improve your lap times, take the time to set up and maintain your suspension. And, unlike the engine modifications, simple oil changes and adjustments are legal in AMA stock classes.

Here are some tips to help you get started. Let’s begin with the forks.

Changing your fork oil can be a lot easier than it looks. If your fork oil has never been changed, it would be best to send the forks to a reputable service shop. The following method is a shortcut to a complete overhaul and will not get them as clean but, it is whole lot better than not doing anything at all.


Fork Oil Changes for Beginners - The quick and “not so dirty� method to fork oil changing. This method is for conventional style forks (not upside forks like on late model KTM 65’s).

Check with your dealer prior to staring this work and determine the recommended oil weight and capacity for your forks. Make sure you have at least 2 times the recommended oil for both legs.


1.Remove the front wheel.
2.Remove any hardware that is attached to the fork leg and prevents you from removing them. (Brake lines, front number plate, etc.)
3.Loosen the top triple clamp hardware. Leave the bottom hardware tight. Now loosen (do not remove) top fork cap, this is the large hex nut on top of fork. The bottom clamp works as a vise to hold the fork so you can loosen the nut. (Loosening the top removes the pressure from the threads of the fork nut)
4.Now loosen bottom triple clamp hardware and slide each fork leg out of triple clamps.
5.The top nut can now be removed.
6.Under the nut there should be a spacer and a long spring. Remove both of these items and place on a clean rag.
7.Turn each fork leg upside down drain out as much oil as possible. Stroke the fork legs through their travel to help flush any oil out.
8.Now add new oil to the leg and repeat step 7. Continue until only clean oil drains out
9.At this point you might be tempted to continue flushing with some kind of solvent. I suggest that you resist this temptation. If there is any solvent left in the forks legs it will breakdown the fork oil prematurely. If you decide to use a solvent, use something like Brake and Electronic cleaner that dries quickly with no residue. And, let the forks dry overnight before filling with new oil.
10.If you decide not to use solvent, you can now add the proper amount and weight of oil and reverse steps for assembly.



Additional Tips

·Oil measurements are given in both volumes and “heights�.
·If a volume of oil is used, (i.e. 185cc) this is how much oil is poured into each leg.If a height is given, the fork oil height is measured with the forks collapsed and the springs removed. While holding the leg plumb, measure from the top of the fork leg to the height of the oil in the leg. Make sure the oil height is equal in each leg.
·The most accurate reading will be attained by reading heights. A turkey baster with a short length of fuel line works great for sucking the oil out to the proper height. Place a zip tie on the hose at the proper dimension from the end and rest it on the side of the fork while sucking the oil out.
·Fork oil height affects the later travel of the forks. More oil makes for a harsher stroke at the bottom (more resistance to bottoming).
·Higher viscosity (20wt vs. 5wt oil) gives more resistance to BOTH compression and rebound throughout the travel. (forks will compress harder and return slower)
·Adding preload to the springs (putting in longer spacers) will stiffen the compression travel and quicken the rebound. (not AMA Stock legal)
·If you have a fork leg leaking oil, you probably have a bad seal. The legs should be disassembled to replace the seals.
·Check for scratches or gouges on the inner fork leg. This will cause seals to fail and leak. Burrs can be lightly sanded smooth.
·Keep a record of what oil weight and volume you used for future reference.
·Don’t be afraid to experiment with different heights and weights.
·After changing your fork oil a couple of times you will see how easy it really is, this entire process can be done in less than a half hour. So what are you waiting for??????

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Courtesy of How2ride.com

How to Adjust Pre-Load



Adjusting pre-load is critical to the start of suspension tuning. This is the foundation from which you will build your other settings. So, before you start turning those knobs and screws on your shocks and forks, read this and put it to practice. Let me say now also that if you adjust your sag correctly, and then tune your adjusters and still don't have the performance you need, then a good suspension specialty shop is your next move. Your riding ability may be off the performance range of the spring or valving you have, in either direction.Let's define our terms. Pre-load is just that, a load put on the spring to change its initial sensitivity. No matter what the sag is, you will start in the same place and end up in the same place in terms of full extension and full compression, but your bike will sag under your own weight differently according to the pre-load. Some tuners call pre-load, "sag" for this reason.OK, let's take some measurements and see what the current setting is. I like to hook the end of the measuring tape in the axle when I start. Sometimes working on bikes can be a team sport, but if you are working alone you will later need to sit on the bike and hold the tape. Hooking the tape on the axle saves a hand. With the bike on a stand and the rear wheel hanging in the air, measure to a point on the bike that is approximately in line with the travel, like a seat bolt. On this Yamaha, the number plate contour makes a nice clean edge to measure to, and I will be able to see it when I'm sitting on the bike in the next position. You can see by the photo that the measurement with the shock fully extended is about 25 1/4. Next, take the bike off the stand, and sit on it in full riding gear. OK, you don't have to wear your helmet. You need to be able to see the measuring tape. Now, sit in the saddle of the seat, with just your tip toes balancing your teetering. Without leaning too far back to do this, measure to that same place you did before. The next photo shows the view looking down on the tape. You can see that the measurement is 21 3/4. My math skills tell me that this is a Sag of 3 1/2 inches. You want the sag to be about 3 1/2 to 4 inches, so I am in an acceptable range. If I did decide to adjust it I would do so changing the position of the spring nuts, see the next photo. The spring nuts are tightened together so the can't move. If you have a KTM, the spring stop is a sleeve with an allen screw. In that case loosen the allen screw before turning the spring stop. It would be great to use a spanner wrench on the lock nuts, but a screw driver is an acceptable method too. Use your worst "beater" screw driver to hammer against the top nut and back it away from the other nut. Remember, tightening the nut against the spring increases the sag amount. Make your adjustment, lock the nut against the spring nut, and you are ready for a test ride.Do a little experimenting. Try more and then less. Ricky C. did when he set up his Honda for his record breaking season. He found that lots of sag suited his riding style. You may need something different.Now you can fine tune your compression and dampening to suit the track of the day, your riding style and demands

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Another write up on setting preload, by JMJ cycles :cool:

Setting the Rear Shock Preload
Your preload setting adjusts the tension on the rear shock spring to compensate for the riders weight. If you look at the top of the shock you will see a couple of big funny looking nuts. These are called spanner nuts, and you are supposed to have a special wrench to turn them (more on that later). These nuts can add or reduce the tension on the spring. One of these nuts acts as a locknut.
Physics 101
Hookes law on springs states that ….F=KX. I know there is a KX in there, but for a minute lets leave motorcycles out of this. Remember we are in physics class now!!
Hooke’s law says that the force a spring exerts is equal to the spring rate (how stiff the spring is) (K = spring rate) multiplied by the distance (X) that it travels. K is a property of the spring and is a fixed number for a given spring. The amount (or distance) you compress a spring is X.
If you have a spring that compresses easily, to the point you can completely collapse it, K is very small. If you have a spring that you can’t compress it all, K is very large.
As a spring compresses X gets larger and more force is required to continue to compress the spring. For example, take a spring that has a K value (spring rate) of 20 lbs/in (for every 20 lbs it will collapse 1 in) and place 100 lbs on it. The spring will collapse 5 inches. (X = 5 inches). With 80 lbs, X =4 and so on.
REMEMBER THIS…………If you have 40 pounds on the spring it will be collapsed 2 inches. If you add 80 more pounds it will collapse an additional 4 inches.
Let’s go shopping……..
So, you go into the showroom and you buy a brand new bike. Sure is nice, isn’t it? Look at that clean plastic…..WOW!
From the price you paid, you are thinking “these guys seen me coming�. So since they knew you were going to buy that bike that already had it set up for you, right? I am sure they had a scale in the shop and they checked your rider’s weight and made any necessary adjustments. Sure they did, it is a BRAND NEW bike and everything is perfect. Let’s go home and ride it!!!
Hold on though, the weight range of riders for this bike can vary 40 pounds (or more). When little Johnny sits on the bike, the shock barely moves. But, when his big brother Bubba sits on it there is only half the suspension left. Where should it be?
Setting the Sag
The amount the bike squats when the rider sits on it is called the sag. How much sag should the bike have? For any motorcycle the best starting point for sag is 30% of the total shock travel.
The following are guidelines to use:
50cc racing bikes – about 2 inches
How do I check the sag?
To check the sag, place the bike on a stand with the rear wheel off the ground. Measure from the center of the rear axle to a fixed point by the back of the seat. A seat, fender or muffler bracket bolt usually works well.
Note this measurement. Then have the rider get on the bike in their “attack riding position� and take the measurement again. Be sure that all of their weight is on the bike; they may need help balancing the bike as you take the measurement.
It is also a good idea to bounce up and down a few times to be sure the suspension isn’t binding.
Subtract the second measurement from the first. This is the amount of sag the bike has. If the number is greater then what is recommended (see above) you have too much sag. If it is less, than you don’t have enough sag.
Time to apply Hooke’s law.
The preload is the amount of load you apply to the shock spring so that it compresses to the proper distance with the rider and gear on the bike. By turning the spanner nuts at the top of the spring you can reduce or increase the amount of force that is “PRELOADED� into the spring.
This does the same thing as adding weight to the spring. By compressing the spring more you are making it “stronger� and it won’t let the bike sag as much. And, loosening it has the opposite effect.
To reduce the amount of sag you need to increase the amount of preload. You do this by compressing the spring further with the spanner nut.
To increase the amount of sag you need to decrease the amount of preload. You do this by loosening the spanner nut on the spring.
Continue this until you reach the proper amount of sag.
Adjusting the Preload
Turning the Spanner Nuts
There are special tools available to work with the spanner nuts. They are called spanner wrenches. Most people don’t have them. Most people don’t adjust their preload settings though either.
If you are one of the first people but don’t want to be one of the second people, you can adjust your preload setting (carefully) with a punch (or a big screwdriver if all else fails) and a hammer.
The top nut is a locknut and can be loosened and backed-off out of the way until you have completed the measurement process. The second nut needs to be used to compress or relieve the spring. You can sometimes find a safe place against the frame to “pry� the spanner nut around in small increments. You can also sometimes grip the spring and turn it with your hand and the nut will turn with it.
Once you reach the proper setting tighten up the lock nut to the other spanner nut.
Race Sag (Do not Confuse with Sag)
Race sag is the difference in the height measurements from the bike on a stand to the free weight of the bike ALONE (no rider). NOT to be confused with “SAG�, the measurement difference with a fully dressed rider. There should be some “race sag� to the suspension with the bike alone, probably somewhere around a 1/2 inch for small bikes and 1 ½ inches for big bikes.
To obtain the proper amount of “race sag� your spring should be compressed about 5 to 20 mm from its free (not compressed at all) length. If you have to go more than that to get the proper amount of sag you need a stiffer spring.
If you reach a point where you have loosened the spanner nut all the way (there is no preload on the spring) and you still don’t have enough sag. Your spring is too stiff (or per Hooke’s law, K is too large).
KTM LC 50 Pro SR parents, this will probably be the case for many of you.
Your options are to find a softer spring (best option) or run with the spanner nut just touching the spring. If you run AMA stock classes you can change the spring with a previous year or different model of the same manufacturer. Unfortunately, KTM does not have another spring that will work with the KTM LC 50 Pro SR.
Some Polini’s come with an optional heavier spring.
Additional Tips and Comments
·Preload is necessary because not only does the suspension travel up, it must also travel down. When you hit a bump the suspension compresses. When you hit a hole the suspension must extend to keep the wheel in contact with the ground. The same is true when you brake (or accelerate), you lighten one end of the bike and the wheels try to leave the ground.
·Adjusting the sag is FREE, easy and completely AMA stock class legal.
·The dimensions given are just guidelines. Pay attention to how the bike is handling for minor adjustments.
·The forks also should have the sag adjusted. This is done by adding spacers in the forks, NOT AMA stock class legal.
·The forks and shock should work TOGETHER to suspend the motorcycle. The bike should be adjusted evenly and balanced so both ends work together. Hold the front brake of the motorcycle and push the footpeg down. Does the bike compress evenly? It should (at least close)
SIDE NOTE: There are several terms used to describe shock spring settings. The terms race sag, sag and preload are all suspension terms and are used interchangeably, probably incorrectly.
For our purpose here (right or wrong), I referred to the difference of the bike on a stand to the loaded rider (with gear) on the bike as “sag�.
And, the difference of the bike on a stand to the weight of the bike alone as the “race sag�.
This is an easy adjustment that is too often overlooked and really makes a difference in the handling of the motorcycle. It is absolutely FREE and should not be ignored. So go get those tape measures out and make them spanner nuts turn!!!

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Setting Shock Sag
Race Sag
1. Put bike on stand so that wheels are off of the ground.
2. Measure from the center of the rear axle straight up to a point on the fender. Record this distance.
3. Have the rider sit on the bike in a normal riding position with the bike off of the stand. The rider should be wearing all of his or her gear.
4. Measure the distance form the rear axle up to the same point on the rear fender.
5. Calculate the difference between the two measurements. The difference should be approx. 1/3 of the suspension travel. The desired setting will differ from model to model but most 125cc-650cc bikes will require 95mm-105mm. Most 80/85cc bikes will require 75mm-80mm of race sag.
6. If the difference is not within the desired range, adjust the preload on the shock spring to obtain the correct measurement.
Static Sag
Race sag should be properly set prior to checking static sag. Use the same method to measure static sag that is used to measure race sag. To calculate static sag you need the measurement with the bike on the stand and the measurement with the bike off of the stand without a rider on it. This will reveal the amount that the rear sags under its own weight. The appropriate range for a 125cc-650cc bike is 19mm-32mm. If the bike sags more than the desired range, the rider will need a softer shock spring. If the bike sags less than the desired range then the rider will need a stiffer spring.


Suspension Adjustments I

Forks The forks must be installed properly for optimum performance. Make sure that the upper and lower clamps are torqued to factory spec. We recommend 20 ft/lbs for the upper and 14.5 ft/lbs for the lower. This ensures that the inner bushings can past inside the clamp surface without binding. Binding can also occur when the axle clamps are not aligned with the upper fork legs. Make sure that this does not happen by loosening the bolts on the clamp that slides on the axle. After it is free enough to slide, compress the front end several times to put the lower portion of the forks in a neutral position. Proceed by tightening the clamp bolts to spec. If headshake occurs, the headset (steering stem) may need to be tightened or the race sag is not correct.

LSC (Low Speed Compression)
-Turn 2 clicks harder to prevent low ride height or bottoming on smooth landings
-Turn 2 clicks softer to improve initial plushness or traction

HSC (High Speed Compression)
-Turn 2 clicks harder to prevent bottoming on flat, sharp landings
-Turn 2 clicks softer to prevent mid-stroke harshness

R (Rebound)
-Turn 2 clicks harder to prevent front end from rebounding high off jump faces
-Turn 2 clicks softer to prevent packing down in the stroke on a series of bumps


Shock The upper and lower shock mount bolts should be installed with thread lock and torqued to spec. The spring preload should be adjusted to achieve the proper race sag before any other adjustments are made. The measurement from the rear axle to a point on the rear fender should be noted when the bike is on a stand. The same measurement should be taken with the bike off of the stand and the rider standing over the center of the bike in full gear. The desired difference of the two measurements will vary for some bikes but should be approx. 1/3 of the total suspension travel.

LSC (Low Speed Compression)
-Turn 2 clicks harder to prevent low ride height or bottoming on smooth landings
-Turn 2 clicks softer to provide more initial movement or improve traction

HSC (High Speed Compression)
-Turn 2 clicks harder to prevent bottoming on flat landings or square-edged holes
-Turn 2 clicks softer to prevent side swapping or harshness in braking bumps and square-edged holes

R (Rebound)
-Turn 2 clicks harder to prevent springy feel or kicking straight up
-Turn 2 clicks softer to prevent packing down in the stroke in a series of bumps


Notes
*1/4 turn is equivalent to 2 clicks for adjusters without clicks


Suspension Adjustments II
Various Tracks: In our experience with racing, we have found that the different tracks may require slightly different settings.
For hard pack to intermediate type tracks (square edge type bumps): One way to determine the compression setting is to try to feel slight bottoming on the biggest jump or G-out section. This will determine if all the travel is being used for that particular track. If a slight bottoming is not felt it is to your advantage to soften the compression 1-2 clicks at a time. This will improve the small to medium bump ride.
For sand type tracks (no-square edged bumps): A little bit more low speed compression and rebound is needed compared to a hard packed track.
To accomplish this start by adding 1-2 clicks of rebound and as the track gets rougher, 1-2 clicks of compression damping.
Supercross tracks usually produce slower piston speeds from the shock and forks than an outdoor track, with a much greater G-out load. This means less damping produced by the shock and forks in a situation that causes more or a bottoming load. Note: to be competitive on a true SX track, a SX only type fork and shock setting is needed to handle todays obstacles. Remember that SX only setting will not be suitable for an outdoor MX.
To compensate, you must adjust the compression stiffer on the shock and forks (anywhere from 2-6 clicks) and in some situations you may have to go stiffer on spring rates.

SUSPENSION TROUBLE SHOOTING
Bottoming: This is caused by lack of compression damping or too soft of a spring rate. Adjust the compression damping stiffer until bottoming is under control. If you run out of damping adjustment and bottoming is still a problem, a stiffer spring rate is needed. Also if the components have a lot of time on them, bottoming can be an indication that service is needed.
Headshake: is generally caused by too much compression in the forks. Soften 1-2 clicks. If you are a light rider for the size of bike, softer springs are recommended. Also too much rebound can cause a "packing" situation where the damping holds the forks down in a stiffer part of the travel than is needed.
Back End Kicks Side to Side: Generally caused by too much compression. If bottoming isn't felt anywhere on the track, adjust the compression 1-2 clicks softer. Too much rebound will also cause this because it holds the back end down in a stiffer part of the travel which in turn makes it too stiff for the bumps it is hitting.
Bike Kicks Straight Up: When the back end is compressed deep into the travel by a bump and it kicks straight up, it is generally caused by too light of rebound damping. Slow rebound damping 1-2 clicks (clockwise). It can also be caused by soft low speed compression, allowing it to use too much travel.

Headshake
Clamp torque
Top- 18 ft/lbs Bottom- 14.5 ft/lbs

Tire psi
11 to 15 psi (front and rear within 2 psi of each other)

Alignment
Chain adjusters should be in the same position (rear wheel should be straight)

Fork height
Forks should be same height

headshake under braking- increase sag to decrease weight on front
headshake under acceleration- decrease sag to transfer weight to front

Bleed forks
Forks should have zero pressure at full extension (bleed with wheel off ground)

Steering torque
Tighten steering so that front end does not fall to side when off of the ground (it should have slight resistance from stop to stop when the bars are tapped)

Rebound speed
Start with fast rebound and slow if bouncing occurs after landing (front and rear should rebound at equal speeds)

Compression balance
Front and rear compression should be equal (if one end compresses easier than the other, more weight will transfer to that end all of the time)

Headshake is generally caused by too much compression in the forks. Soften 1-2 clicks. Also too much rebound can cause a "packing" situation where the damping holds the forks down in a stiffer part of the travel than is needed. (soften compression or speed up rebound)

Suspension Tuning

Getting Started - Shocks
Setting the Rebound:
1. Find a relatively fast straight with braking bumps leading into the entrance of a corner. Reduce (Turn clicker out) the rebound damping until the rear end begins to hop or feel loose. Finally, increase (Turn clicker in) the rebound damping until the sensation goes away.
2. Find a jump that tends to launch the motorcycle out. The rear end should absorb and then smoothly lift the motorcycle into the air. If the rear end bounces up, add rebound. (Turn clicker in)
3. Find some large whoops. The motorcycle should track straight through the whoops with the rear wheel extending to the ground before the next impact. If it does not perform as described as above, it is packing and the rebound damping should be reduced! (Turn clicker out). Please note that the guide for sand set-up, as these rules don't apply for sand.
Setting the Compression:
1. Find a corner with acceleration bumps on the exit. The rear of the motorcycle should follow the ground. If the rear end "breaks up", soften the compression. (Turn clicker out) (If this fails soften the rebound two clicks.) (Turn clicker out)
2. Find some rough sections, a large jump and a couple of "G-Outs". The shock should bottom on the roughest section but it should not be a slamming sensation. Add compression to fight bottoming. (Turn clicker in.) But avoid going to far as small bump ride will be sacrificed in the trade. Remember the adjusters have a primary effect on the low speed, so even a large change in setting may only affect bottoming resistance slightly. Remember bottoming your suspension is not necessarily a bad thing. You should strive to bottom off the biggest bottoming load obstacle on the track. If you don't you're not getting maximum plushness from your suspension.
Getting Started - Forks
Setting the Compression:
1. The forks should react to all track variations. If the forks seem harsh on small bumps or holes, soften the compression. (Turn clicker out) If they aren't, stiffen (Turn clicker in.) until they do feel harsh and then turn back a click or two.
2. Now find the rough part of the track again. The forks should bottom over the worst obstacle. If harsh bottoming occurs, add oil in 5 mm increments.
Setting the Rebound:
The rebound damping is responsible for the stability and the cornering characteristics of the motorcycle.
1. Find a short sweeper. When the forks compress for the turn, the speed at which the forks return is the energy that pushes your front wheel into the ground. If the forks rebound too quickly, the energy will be used up and the bike will drift wide, or wash. If the rebound is too slow, the bike will tuck under and turn too soon to the inside. Find the appropriate balance for each track.
2. With the bike turning well, the wheel should return to the ground quickly yet not deflect off berms or bounce off jumps.
Different Tracks:
For hardpack to intermediate:
Set the compression softer, (Turn clicker out) front and rear to help get maximum wheel contact and plushness.
Sand tracks:
(Non-square edged bumps); More low speed compression and rebound are necessary. Start by adding 1-2 clicks (Turn clicker in.) of rebound and as the track gets rough, add compression 1-4 clicks. (Turn clicker in.) (Supplementary sand set-up techniques). Harshness is a result of packing in forks. Remember to add compression (Turn clicker in) to help keep the front end from packing. The rear suspension will exhibit packing by swapping. To eliminate swapping begin adding compression (Turn clicker in) until the bike tracks straight and then add rebound (Turn clicker in) to keep the rear following the terrain of each whoop. Don't be concerned if your clickers are nearly maxed out in sand conditions. Unless of course you had your bike revalved for sand.
Supercross:
(G-load, curb hits); G-loads produce slow piston speeds. This means that less dampening is produced by the shock and forks in a situation that causes more of a bottoming load. To set your bike up for Supercross adjust the compression stiffer (Turn clicker in) on the suspension (2-6), clicks and in some circumstances raise oil level and/or change to stiffer springs.
Problems
Headshake:
Adjust the forks lower in the triple clamps.
Excessive Rear End Kick:
Check for packing, which is identified by kick to side in hard to loam conditions. If you observe packing, soften rebound. (Turn clicker out.) This cannot be avoided if you brake improperly and lock the rear wheel up and/or pull in the clutch, on the entrance to corners.
The shock can kick up from using too much of the travel on a bump and unloading the full spring energy while the forks are continually compressed from braking.

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Chapter Five: Liquid Cooled Bikes & The Electrical System



5.1 Water Pump FAQs

Water pump nut requires red loctite and torqued to 15 ft
lbs.

5.2 Keep It Cool!: Coolant Levels and Tips
-Fill coolant to top of fins only, NO HIGHER
-Engine Ice and Liquid Performance are both highly recommended

5.3 Electrical System Analysis

These KTM 50s go through electrical components like nothing. Stators go out frequently, along with the coil.

And on the 05 MA, you'll need to get the wires away from the cylinder/head.

5.4 Testing Stators and Coils
Stator=500+ ohms is :2thumbs:
Coil=2200+ is :2thumbs:



Here is a nice write-up on "How To Test Your Stator & Coil" by ktmtalker 3vrider:

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Stator:
Lay the bike on it's right side. Remove left case (not the water pump) with three 8mm bolts. The entire water pump housing can be left intact so you do not need to drain the coolant. When pulling the case make sure not to lose the two alingnment dowels between the left case and the main engine housing. Disconnect the electrical lead and test electrically according to the diagram. This may be done while the stator is still bolted in the bike.

When assembling after testing/replacement make sure the alignment dowels are in place and the water pump shaft is aligned properly with the crank shaft. Press togather gently, do not force. There is no gasket. Make electrical connections, install and torq bolts.

Coil:
The coil can be tested without removing from the bike. Remove the seat and tank for easy access. Make sure to turn fuel off and disconnect fuel line before removing the tank. Disconnect coil electrically and test.

If replacement is needed. Unbolt 2 8mm bolts and and unthread the spark plug cap from the old coil. Thread the cap onto the new coil firmly (kind of like a wire nut) and test for accurate resistance to make sure you have contact between the coil wire and the spark plug cap. Install coil with two 8mm bolts. Use locktight and torq bolts. Make electrical connections. Install tank and seat.

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Chapter Seven: Odds & Ends

7.1 Best Tires?


The best "overall" tires voted on by KTM Talk members in descending order:
-Michellin Starcross
-Bridgestone
-Dunlop


7.2 Best Handlebars?


The best Bars voted on by KTM Talk members in Descending order:
-Renthal
-Tag
-Pro Taper
-DeMarini

NOTE: To acquire the proper handlebar width for your childs needs, simply have your child get into the push up position. And measure from pinky to pinky. That is the best way to judge their strongest position.

7.3 Best Hand Grips?
Renthal Grips, Spyder, Tag.. they're all nice. Just use what you're rider is most comfortable with :cool:

NOTE: There are easy ways to change your grips. One is to cut the old ones off and clean the bars, then spary Hairspray, Spraypaint or gas on the bars, and slide them on (Then safety wire). Another way it so use grip glue, messy but effective.

If you're grips are too long, FIX THEM, don't let them get punctured and allow sand/dirt into the throttle assembly!!! Cut a slice out of the middle of them, then grip glue them on. Works like a charm.

Also, if you run the stock throttle assembly, it's always a good idea to put on a new throttle tube every time you change your grips just to keep it fresh. It's a cheap part and is critical to keep fresh and clean.

7.4 Best Pegs?

-IMS Pro Peg
-Stock
-Pegs off a larger model KTM


7.5 What the hell is a frame brace? Is it legal?

The frame brace is a product invented by Ken Carter, owner of PVK. It helps prevent the rear motor mount and frame from breaking. Yes, It is AMA legal.

Info and Installation of Frame Brace

There are copy cats out there as well. But this is where it originated.


Chapter Eight: The Kids Wanna Ride with Experience and Style!

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Special Report: Kids in Racing
What Kids Get from Racing

by Lance Oliver



Racing is fun. Just ask the thousands of kids involved in it.

But did you know it can also be healthy for a child’s development?

Yeah, healthy. And that’s not just us talking—it’s the opinion of experts in the field, like Patrick Cohn, a sports psychologist in Orlando, Florida, who counsels both youths and adults in all kinds of sports.

Cohn notes that participating in competition as a child can have benefits that last a lifetime.

Certainly, the exercise associated with motorcycle racing helps kids stay in better physical condition than sitting on the sofa eating junk food and playing videogames. But as Cohn notes, there are mental and emotional benefits as well.

“Sports help kids get used to the competitive environment. And life can be very competitive,� Cohn says.

Through sports, he says, kids can learn to set goals, to focus and to handle pressure—abilities that will serve them their entire lives. A young racer who receives proper guidance gets valuable lessons in separating which tasks are essential for success, and which ones are distractions. They face new challenges and gain confidence when they meet those challenges.

Cohn adds that competition also helps kids learn how to handle both success and disappointment, two things they are bound to encounter in life.

“In fact,� he notes, “everything I teach in sports psychology, I hope carries over in life.�

Much of that applies to sports of all types. But motorsports in particular offer additional lessons. For instance, a young racer is not only responsible for preparing his or her own body for competition, but also helping maintain a piece of machinery that’s far more expensive than a baseball glove or a pair of basketball shoes.

“That’s a level of responsibility that just doesn’t exist in other sports,� says AMA Sports Manager Steve Carnegie.

Before joining the AMA staff, Carnegie ran a motocross camp in Georgia, teaching beginners how to ride and experienced youngsters how to ride better. Having worked with hundreds of kids, he says one of the benefits he’s seen is the self-discipline racing builds.

“They see the other kids who do well and they decide, ‘I want to be someone who can be mentally strong, make smart decisions and have a never-give-up attitude,’ � says Carnegie.

Many parents use that discipline to encourage young racers into better performance in school, too. Racing is a privilege earned by meeting family responsibilities and being conscientious about school work. Plus, the demands of the sport leave less unstructured and unsupervised free time, which is when most kids get in trouble.

“If an athlete is on the racetrack or the court or the golf course, that’s time away from other places where he could be getting into trouble,� Cohn says.

That’s the theory, anyway. And Carnegie says that in his experience, it works.

“Of the thousands of people I’ve met in this sport,� he says, “I can think of only a handful who have drifted into things they shouldn’t be doing.�






8 Simple Rules for Parents

It may not look like it on the track, but racing is a team sport. And for amateur racers, the “home team� usually means just that—Mom, Dad and other family members who support their racing efforts.

That puts extra responsibility on parents, who often need to fill the roles of coach, tuner and sponsor, in addition to their normal duties.

How do you juggle those complex roles? Sports psychologist Patrick Cohn offers eight guidelines for parents of amateur racers:


1. Racing should be fun. Treat it that way. With all the money in professional sports today, it is hard for parents to understand that it’s just good fun to young racers. The primary goal should be to have fun and enjoy the healthy competition.


2. Young racers compete in sports for many reasons. They enjoy the competition, like the social aspect, and enjoy the challenge of setting goals. You might have a different agenda, but you need to recognize that racing is your child’s sport, not yours.


3. Focus on the process of racing, instead of results. Winning comes from working the process and enjoying the ride.


4. You are a role model for your child athlete. Your child will see how you react to a close race or questionable behavior by a competitor. Stay calm, composed and in control at the track, so your child can mimic those positive behaviors.


5. Refrain from race-day coaching. Once at the track, athletes need to trust in their training and “just do it.� Save the coaching for practice and focus on encouragement at the track.


6. Help your athlete detach self-esteem from achievement. Too many athletes attach self-worth to their level of performance. Help your child understand that he or she is a person first, who happens to race, instead of a racer who happens to be a person.


7. Ask your child athlete the right questions. This tells your child what you think is important in sports. If you ask, “Did you win?� your child will think winning is important. If you ask, “Did you have fun?� he or she will assume having fun is important.


8. Pledge to follow the Parent’s Code of Ethics developed by the Parents Association for Youth Sports (www.NAYS.org; (800) 729-2057). PAYS provides a parental handbook and code of ethics for adults to sign before each competitive season. This is a great tool to guide parents in their interaction with young athletes.


Patrick J. Cohn, Ph.D., is the founder of Peak Performance Sports in Orlando, Florida. He is a nationally recognized mental game coach who works with motorcycle and auto racers. For more information, visit www.peaksports.com or call (888) 742-7225.

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8.2 Pimp That Bike!!!


8.2.1 Most Recommended Custom Graphics Companies
Roost MX
Dammer Designs
Big Air Graphics
Dirt GraphX
Moto GraphX
Speed Graffix


Applying Graphics by Mr Keebler himself :cool:

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Originally posted by Keebs:
Cleaning Procedures:
Surface temperatures should be between 50 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit before attempting the installation. As a general rule, if the surface is hot to the touch it's over 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Adhesive becomes brittle when it gets too cold and gummy when it gets too hot. Applications outside the recommended range of 50 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit reduce the adhesives' ability to perform.

All surfaces are contaminated to some degree. To ensure good adhesion to any surface it is critical that you follow procedures in decontaminating and preparing the surface prior to any vinyl product installation.
Wash and rinse the area with liquid dish detergent and warm water. Then dry the surface with a clean, lint-free towel or cloth.
Finish up the cleaning process by wiping down the entire area with Isopropyl Alcohol (rubbing alcohol). To avoid recontamination during the final cleaning step, wipe the surface in just one direction, using a clean, lint-free towel or cloth. You are now ready to apply the vinyl.
Put some liquid soap in a spray bottle and spray onto the back of the graphics. This way you can move your graphics around to the correct position.
Use some sort of squeege or graphics application tool to squeeze/rub out all the water and air bubbles from under the graphics.
You should always start the squeegee from the middle and either use a straight up or down motion. I also use a hair dryer to help the graphics become tacky again to stick to the plastic. I slightly heat up the surface with the hair dryer and then use a very soft cloth to compress firmly on the entire surface and especially the edges of the graphics ensuring that all the bubbles are out and it is firmly attached to the plastic. Some people put some rubbing alcohol in the spray which will help the drying process.


keebs

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Originally posted by Alex:
Some of you ride and some you just chase your child around the track. Whatever the case, it is time to get into shape!! and I am right there with you!

Below I have oulined what I think is a good working mans program for our sport. I also included some eating tips.

After a kid in the last class called me chubby, I really got this program going. I started this program in September. If I learn to control my eating I will get to my goal weight of 195. I have 25 lbs to go.

Feel free to jump in and post your suggestions!

Warm up to the hard stuff (1st 4 weeks)

Run 10 min
Stair step 15 min. (Cardio here. Kick boxing, arobics, jump rope)

kick boxing can be as easy as round kicks left and right leg, and 1 punch after each kick. Simple.

At least 3 days a week!! Common get yourself in shape!! Your kids wants to talk to you when your 60!!

After 4 weeks

Run 20 minutes (don't worry about distance!) Tread Mill is OK too!!
Stair step 25 minutes (Increase the intensity 'till you sweat)

3-4 times a week!!! Your loosing weight aren't you?!

After 8 weeks

your smokin!

Now you are at the I'm 17 and groovin' mode, buy some new Levi's 550 Jeans and a Thor hoodie, your there.

Interval 1

Bicycle 30 minutes
Stair step 30 minutes

Interval II

Run 20 minutes
Stair Step 20 minutes
Bicycle 20 minutes

Interval III

Run 30 minutes
Stair step 30 minutes

Interval IV

Run 20 minutes
Kick Box 20 Minutes
Stair step 20 minutes


Notes:

Each interval is one week long. 3-4 times a week.

Wieghts: Lift all you want. You do not have (halft lol) to, but you will supercharge your matabolism if you do. I don't, I ride big Red, that works for me.

Eating:

Eat what you want...Oh, you want to loose weight? Eat what you want but less....Eat lots of: Chicken, bannanas, eggs-fry em and chow, I eat about 12 a week. Eat nut, hard on the system but full of protien, I eat the trail mix stuff all the time.

Do it for yourself
Do it for your kid
Do it for your wife

Just do it. Find the time. Get off the talk if ya have to! We want you here for years to come. Stay healthy.


Alex

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Originally posted by Alex:
It's like this:

Thru geometric changes and optimization of volumetric crank cavity configurations and transfer port integration:: We reshape,add to, and take away from the crank and it's peripheral cavitation to enhance the velocity and pressure of charged air/fuel mixture.

The result of which is an extremely fast accerating motorcycle. Peak horsepower is gained, but most of the advantage comes from going 1000-13,000 RPM's in about 32% less time than before.

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Originally posted by Todd:


Todd' Tips - Part 1
September 2003 Some things never change.

This picture was taken about mid way through the 2002 season. It's a shot of my son's bikes.

Why share it with you? I often times get calls from parents new to motocross who are frustrated when their riders "bike" breaks.

This is not a sport for everyone. It requires a sizable investment in time, money, family commitment, and so on.

If you expect or demand 100% from your racer make sure to live up to their expectations as well.

If you are a 50cc racers parent and consider yourself serious about racing. Having a stock and a mod bike or a practice and a race bike is a must. You will find that "backup bike" to be a big frustration reliever at some point.

Todd Heemsbergen / Owner T H Racing

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Originally posted by Todd:


Todd' Tips - Part 2 October 2003

Make racing fun!

It is easy to get caught-up in the “must win or it is not fun� game.

We all engage in this sport for different reasons. For some it is a hand-me-down of what dad did. For some it is a way to stay close to their kids. Others just enjoy racing no matter where they finish. There is not a right or wrong to what attracts us to this great sport.

For me personally, I would rather change a dozen tires that be forced to watch a ball game. If it has something to do with spending time with my family and bikes, count me in!

I think most parents including myself have taken too hard of a stance on our young riders at some point in time.

For whatever it is worth, I am done with anything other that a positive approach with my son. I have found I get a lot better results from finding a positive thing to discuss about each race, and telling him how proud I am of “that� accomplishment.

I could not resist putting a picture of my happiest rider Matt Lemoine out to the right. At Matt’s young age, he is the one I give credit to for teaching me about having fun at the races

Todd Heemsbergen / Owner T H Racing

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Originally posted by Todd:



Todd' Tips - Part 3 Don't blow it all - keep some for mom!

Okay, you have been bit by the “motocross bug�, now what?

You followed the tips on getting the extra 50cc bike or two. You are remembering to keep racing fun. What is next? I can tell you from the been there done that racer’s dad that this stuff will get expensive. The harder the old “motocross bug� bites you the deeper you dig in your pockets.

I have known those that skip the rent payment to make it to a “big race.� Do not loose sight of what you are doing. It does not matter how fast your rider is or what you do, odds are against them becoming the next big thing. For every local rider that win’s week in and week out, there are 10’s of others just as fast across the country that you probably have not encountered yet. Even if you are fortunate enough to have a superstar rider, what happens over time? If you can keep your racer focused through the teen years, dating, driver’s license, parties, etc., you should start buying lotto tickets because you have been blessed with uncanny luck!

If your wife is driving a Yugo and your rider has state of the art bikes, it is time to rethink your program. As parents, it is easy to spend money on our children.

If you plan on being involved in this sport for years to come, do not forget about mom’s needs. Share your time and resources with the rest of your family and your reward will be great!

Todd Heemsbergen / Owner T H Racing

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Originally posted by Mike Burkeen:
How To Be a Good Peewee Parent

As my wife and I look back on our 7-year-old son’s first two years of PeeWee motocross racing, we are excited at the progress he has made and the fun our entire family has had in this wonderful sport. We have seen improvements in our son’s schoolwork, his attitude, and also in his ability to ride a motorcycle. Although we have made some of the common mistakes parents make in all sports, we are confident that we are on the track to fun and success for our family in motocross. For those who are new to the sport or are considering starting, I would like to share what we feel are ten of the most important things we have learned through trial and error and from other parents over the last 2 years:

1. Do not yell at your child to go faster when he is racing- This is very distracting to a peewee racer. I wish I had a dollar for every time I have seen a young racer crash while looking at a parent who was screaming. A five year old needs to watch where he is going. In most cases a child is not going to go fast because his parents want him to go fast, he will go fast when his competitiveness is stronger than his fear. Only the child can make this decision.

2. Always keep safety as a high priority- We have purchased every piece of safety gear made and our son, Matthew, wears all of it every time he rides. He wears boots, pants, a long sleeve jersey, a helmet, goggles, a neck brace, knee pads, a chest protector, and elbow pads every time he practices or races. Knee braces will be the next piece of protective equipment that we will make him wear. Don’t let your child use the excuse that all of this gear is not comfortable. After a couple of rides in a new piece of gear they will not even notice it is on.

3. Give three pieces of praise before any criticism and end each critique with a compliment- When our son comes off the track I always ask him how he felt that his moto went. He is usually pretty in tune with the things he did well and the opportunities he has to improve. I then tell him at least three things that he did perfectly before giving him any constructive criticism. These compliments usually involve things like getting the holeshot, taking a great line or making a great pass but can also be less significant things like not falling down, finishing the race, or keeping his goggles on. It really doesn’t matter how far you have to reach for the compliment, just make sure there are three good things before any constructive criticism.

4. Be supportive of your child and all of the other kids at the track- In our area most of the parents are very supportive of all of the kids racing. Some of Matthew’s biggest rival’s parents are on the track cheering for him as well as their own children. When Matthew won the first moto of his career, the mother of one of his competitors was the first person to congratulate him. She ran up to him and gave him a huge hug and cheered wildly. This was an awesome display of support because Matthew had passed her son a couple of turns from the finish for the moto win. In a recent race Matthew and a good friend of his were battling side by side all night long in both of their classes. In one moto his friend fell in a corner and Matthew was stuck in a rut behind him. The boy’s father was the first to get to the crash and he made sure Matthew was able to get by before picking up his son’s bike, starting it, and sending him on his way. It was a great display of sportsmanship!

5. If you are not an experienced motocross racer it makes sense to get professional instruction for your child- If your child wants to play competitive tennis or golf you would send them to a tennis or golf professional. It is very important that kids learn to use correct form early when racing! If your child is not using proper form he may still be quite fast but will probably tend to crash a lot and have inconsistent results. Professional instruction will help them progress as quickly and safely as possible.

6. Be a resource to the parents of the kids in your child’s class and to the kids coming up- If we named all of the people who gave us advice, both good and bad, over the last year it would fill this page. While we are by no means experts, we have gained a lot of knowledge from other parents over the last 2 years and are happy to share our experience with anyone. In addition to knowledge, most of the parents in our district are quick to offer up parts or one of their bikes to ride if another rider has bike problems.

7. Match or exceed the effort of your child- Peewee motocross racing is a lot of work for the child and also for the parents. Parents are responsible for taking the child to practice, making sure they have a clean well-maintained motorcycle, motivating their rider, and a host of other tasks. Without a huge amount of effort on the parent’s part, it will be very difficult for their child to have success.

8. DO NOT CHEAT- It never ceases to amaze me that some parents think winning a race for 4-6 year olds is important enough for them to cheat. We have seen and protested kids with 60cc pistons running in the 50cc shaft class. Parents who succumb to the pressure to run illegal bikes are doing a disservice to their kids. I wonder how they explain it to their child when they get caught? Well Johnny, I didn’t think you were as good as the other kids so I made your bike faster so you could win? I also do not buy the excuse that you have to cheat because everyone else does. If you think someone is cheating, and you need to be pretty sure you are right, file a protest. That’s why the protest procedure is in the rulebook. If you happen to be wrong, apologize and hope the protested party takes it as a compliment.

9. Set goals- Families participate in this sport for many different reasons. Some feel they have the next James Stewart on their hands while others are just out to have some fun. Figure out why your family is involved in the sport and set your goals accordingly. Make sure the goals are attainable yet challenging and reward your child for attaining them. When your child reaches their goals, raise the bar.

10. HAVE FUN!!!

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Originally posted by Pam:
The jumps are nuts. But I have no room to talk because Darren jumps them and he jumped them on a 50 with most of his competition jumping also. It will always be a competition, peer pressure thing. As a parent if you have one of these jumping kids you do and you will have to make sure that they have and are getting schooled on jumping. They need to hear techniques from trainers and riders that know what to tell them to do if their jump gets out of control. That is the biggest fear of all the parents hear...our kids getting hurt. But the jumps are in arenacross and in motocross as well.

So no...don't tell your kid to jump. DO walk the track and listen to your kids. They will tell you which jumps they are planning to try and then you must be able to discuss technique. The parent is just as important in the jump as the rider.

And it is in the turns and the whoops...training rule #1 turns.

Jumping scares me to Death!!! But if you have the faith that you have given your racer ample time with other riders, other teachers and you have heard and seen that your rider has the skills and technique that is required...well, it only makes you feel a little better about watching your son jump.

But again...it is dangerous! Some of those kids should not jump...it wasn't like this weekend and jumping made a difference really in the 50 class..

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Chapter Eleven: AMA Racing MX, HS, SX, AX, XC, Drag etc etc etc

11.1 How do I get started?

AMA-Getting Started

11.2 What district am I in?

Districts

11.3 Where are the tracks in my area?

Go into your district website, and they will have everything you need to know :2thumbs:

11.4 What bike do I need, and what class are we in?

2005 Approved bikes for each class

11.5 AMA Rules

2006 AMA Racing Rules

11.6 Track Finder by David Hanscom

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Originally posted by David Hanscom:
Since I couldn’t find any single point to find schedules and tracks throughout the U.S., I made one myself. I’m seeking additional track and schedule data to add. I also located and linked Google Earth for each track.

Schedules & Tracks

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Courtesy of JMJ Cycles :cool:

-Use Teflon tape (plumbing tape) under your clutch and front brake perches. Keep the bolts firm but not tight. If you crash it is better that the perch rotates then break.

-Go to your local bicycle shop and buy a bike steering head bearing wrench. They are real slim wrenches that allow you to get under the triple clamp to adjust the steering head bearing. You will probably have to grind off some of the material on the outside of the wrench opening. I use mine all the time.

-Use a rag to roll between the sprocket and chain when tightening the rear axle during chain adjustments. This will keep the rear wheel against the chain adjusters as you tighten the axle.

-Rotate your fuel petcock to the inside of the bike. This will keep the riders foot (or a collision with another bike) from accidentally hitting it and turning the fuel off.

-When you are done cleaning your air filters, soak your chain in the same solvent.

-Use baby oil on the foam of your goggles to help keep dust out.

-Don’t overlook tightening all the bolts on your bike. Including motor mounts, swingarm bolts, steering stem bearing nuts and wheel spokes.

-Don’t spend a bunch of money on aftermarket parts and ignore the basic maintenance items. Things like new tires, a properly jetted bike, fresh top end, a clean air filter, suspension oil changes and adjustments, good brakes, chain and sprockets will do plenty for all but the fastest riders.

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Originally posted by Barfly:
For the Beta Motor:
Hexagon nut primary gear M14x1.25 40 Nm (30 ft.lb)
Hexagon nut ignition rotor M10x1.25 20 Nm (15 ft.lb)
Hexagon nut of clutch hub M10x1.25 Loctite 243 + 35 Nm (26 ft.lb)
HH bolts clutch shoes M6 Loctite 243 + 12 Nm (9 ft.lb)
Cylinder head bolts M7 15 Nm (11 ft.lb)
Cylinder base nuts M8 18 Nm (13 ft.lb)
Allen head bolt-Stator M5x25 Loctite 243 + 8 Nm (6 ft.lb)
Oil plug M16 5 Nm (4 ft.lb)
Oil drain plug M10 15 Nm (11 ft.lb)
Other bolts engine M5 7 Nm (5 ft.lb)
M6 10 Nm (7 ft.lb)
M8 30 Nm (22 ft.lb)
Hexagon nuts front/rear axle M12x1 30 Nm (22 ft.lb)
Hexagon nut swing arm bolt M12 40 Nm (30 ft.lb)
HH bolts of top/bottom triple clamp M8 15 Nm (11 ft.lb)
HH bolts handlebar clamp M8 20 Nm (15 ft.lb)
Shock absorber top/bottom M10 45 Nm (34 ft.lb)
Allen head bolt – Handlebar support M10 Loctite 243 + 40 Nm (30 ft.lb)
Front brake caliper M8 Loctite 243 + 20 Nm (15 ft.lb)
Front brake disk M6 Loctite 243 + 10 Nm (7 ft.lb)
Spoke nipple M4 2,5 - 3 Nm (3 - 4 ft.lb)
Other bolts chassis M5 6 Nm (8 ft.lb)
M6 10 Nm (7 ft.lb)
M8 25 Nm (33 ft.lb)
M10 45 Nm (34 ft.lb)

Hope that helps.
Cheers Barfly.

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Courtesy of JMJ Cycles

Lacing a 50 Wheel with Buchanan Spokes Tips


First - This can be a very trying experience. Allow lots of time and don't be in a hurry.

Second - The Buchanan spokes lace up differently then the stock spokes. The pattern is different. Please compare attached picture to pattern of stock wheel before starting. The Buchanan spokes are longer and the method used to lace this way stretches the spokes out further. There are more spokes in between each end with the new way.
Third – There are two different spokes... one has a slight bend. The bent ones must go on the outside of the hub while the straight ones go on the inside of the hub.

Fourth - You will probably have to drill out the hub and rim to accept the spokes. Don't drill any bigger than you have to. There is not a lot of "meat" left before you reach the end of the hub.

Fifth - Follow the exact pattern as shown in the picture when inserting the spokes into the hub. Insert all spokes into the hub before going through the rim. Start with one hole in the rim and progress to the very next hole in the rim. Do not try to lace all of one side of the hub or any other way. These spokes are so short and stiff that they do not bend and you can’t “squeeze� one in later.

Sixth - As you get the spokes through the rim attach a nipple so the spoke stays in. Do not run the nipple down too far because you will want to push the rim down the spokes as you work to the opposite side. This will give you more room to get the spoke through the rim.

Seventh - It might take a buddy to help pry the last couple of spokes through. They can be a bear.

Eighth - After getting all the spokes through, work your way around the rim tightening them equally. Temporarily put the wheel (without the tire) onto the swingarm. This will serve as your truing stand. Attach a zip tie around the swingarm and cut it so that the end just barely misses the rim. Spin the rim on the swingarm and adjust it so that it runs true with the zip tie.
Ninth – Check to make sure the spokes do NOT protrude past the nipples inside the rim. If they do grind them down until they are flush with the top of the nipple. Run a strip of duct tape (cut down to about 1 ½ wide) inside the rim to protect the tube from the spokes.

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NOTE: This procedure was done on a 2004 200SX, your machine may not look exactly
like this, but it should be pretty close. Also, this will detail the install after the teardown
since I had already performed the tear down prior to writing this. To perform the
teardown just go in reverse order.
At this point your engine probably looks something like this:
(Note: Use rags to prevent dust from entering engine while the top end is disassembled)

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Now it is time to install the piston back onto the rod, here are the parts you will need

Piston
Ring(s)
Needle Bearing
Wrist Pin
Circlips

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(For the observant, yes, this is actually a 200EXC two ring piston instead of a one
ring 200SX piston)

First, you will need to put the rings on the piston, if you have a two ring piston,
put the bottom ring on first. Be careful not to stretch the ring too much or you
will break it. Also, notice in the gap on the piston there is a pin that you should center
the gap of the ring on. (Hard to see, but on the top ring look between the ring gap)

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Next, put the needle bearing into the hole in the rod. I like to put a little 2 stroke oil
on the needle bearing so it has some lube at the initial start up.

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Now, note the forward direction of your piston, this piston was easy, it
has an arrow stamped on it.

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Next, insert the wristpin part of the way into the hole of the piston,
just enough to hold it in there.

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Set the piston on the rod, and line up the hole in the piston with the
hole in the rod and needle bearing assembly. Make sure the piston is
facing the right way.

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Push the wristpin through the piston and needle bearing until it is
flush with the piston.

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A socket can be used to help you push, just find one that is the
right size.

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Now it is time to put in the circlips that hold the wristpin in place.

NOTE 1: This is another good time to make sure that you have a
rag in the opening to the lower end. These clips are springy and
tricky to get in. You don't want one falling into the bottom end!!!

NOTE 2: Some people may prefer to install one of the circlips prior
installing the wristpin. That way you avoid having to install two
circlips over the open bottom end.

NOTE 3: Notice how the open ends of the circlip is not lined up
with the dimple in the hole of the side of the piston.

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There is a ridge on the inside of the hole in the piston that the
circlip seats into. I usually stick one end of the circlip in the groove
then squeeze it with my fingers to get it the rest of the way in. You
may need to push it in a little more with a flat blade screwdriver to
get it seated properly. You can see the ridge in this picture just on
the far side of the dimple in the hole in the side of the piston.

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Install the 2nd circlip in the other side of the piston in the same manner.

Put a little premix on the skirt of the piston.

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Also put some premix on the crank in the lower end. Just enough to
cover it lightly.

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Install the cylinder base gaskets, make sure the metal surfaces are clean
and free of diirt and/or grease.

NOTE: Notice there are 3 gaskets in my particular application. This is to get the
"X" dimension right. I put the thinnest gasket in between the other two.

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Now it is time to install the cylinder.

NOTE: An extra pair of hands comes in real handy during this particular step.
Either to hold the cylinder, or to compress the rings. Especailly with a two
ring piston.

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Position the cylinder above the piston, try to have the cylinder lined up
with the mounting studs so that after installing the cylinder over the
piston you do not need to twist the cylinder to get it to line up with the
mounting studs.

Squeeze the ring(s) with your fingers so that they compress and fit into
the cylinder.

NOTE: Make sure the ring gap is lined up with the positioning pin in the
groove of the piston. Otherwise, if the ring is sitting over the pin, you
will not be able to compress it enough for it to fit in the cylinder.

NOTE: Sorry no pictures of that last step since I did not have a helper
and both hands were occupied.

Here is a picture of the cylinder with the piston installed.

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Before sliding the cylinder all the way down, make sure that the powervavle
actuating arm lines up with the receiving fork in the cylinder directly above it.

Slide the cylinder down all the way.

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Open the side door and verify that the powervalve actuating arm did in fact
get seated in the receiving fork. Then put the side door back on.

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Install cylinder base nuts.

---

quote:

---

Check the "X" dimension, refer to owners manual for instructions.

Torque the cylinder base nuts down to the value specified in the owners
manual.

NOTE: Now you are asking yourself, how do you get a socket on the cylinder
base nuts in order to torque them correctly? The way I did it was to grind
down my motion pro torque wrench adapter.

BEFORE:

---

quote:

---

AFTER:

---

quote:

---

I hated to do it, but it was the only way to get the nuts torqued correctly.
Torque the nuts down, tightening each nut a little bit at a time in order to
acheive uniform torque readings.

---

quote:

---

NOTE: If you use a motion pro torque wrench adapter, make sure to adjust
the torque setting on the torque wrench accordingly.
Install the o-rings into the top of the cylinder. A little assembly lube will help
to keep the o-rings in place.

NOTE: You engine may have a cylinder head gasket instead of o-rings.

---

quote:

---

Install the head, and torque down the head bolts to the value specified
in your shop manual.

---

quote:

---

Install the engine braces.

---

quote:

---

Install the cooling system hoses.

---

quote:

---

NOTE: When installing the hose that connects to the head, near the spark plug,
make sure the face the tightening screw away from the sparkplug. This makes
it easier to get a wrench on the sparkplug.


Install the powervalve setting indicator gasket and breather hose.
(Left side of cylinder)

---

quote:

---

Install a fresh sparkplug. (Aren't you glad you left room for the
sparkplug wrench?) Don't forget to put on the sparkplug cap.

---

quote:

---

Add fresh coolant.

---

quote:

---

Put on the tank, shrouds, and seat. You are done!

---

quote:

---

Turn on the gas, hold your breath, and kick her over!

---

Conclusion:

Enjoy :cool: Don’t forget where the info came from :2thumbs: And if you cannot find what you're looking for here, go through the search function outlined in the "Bog" section... One-word Searches :2thumbs:



Credits:

Who to thank if this helped you :cool:
twomorrows
JMJCycles
mjknapp
Barfly
Todd Heemsbergen @ www.THRacing.com
Hacksaw
Alex Manga @ www.50ccparts.com
Ken Carter @ www.PVK.cc
The Walsh Family
Mattsdad
admin @ KTM Talk
Fatman
nsb
3vrider
GrandsDad#25
Mr Keebs Himself (Keebler)
Brendan's Dad ( he gave me the idea to do this!)
David Hanscom
KTMSprocket
acomputerdude

Bonus Notes For reading the whole book lol :
Story on Black Drool from your silencer, it isn't cool! Thanks Barfly :cool:
Mixing K100 Properly (conversion math inside)


MORE TO COME.....


Keep it coming people!!! Look at the Table of Contents and let me know what you can help with!!! :cool:

This should take another week or two to completely finish :showtime:

Well, that was easier than I thought!

It's the same format as minifags!!! Cool...

Was just a simple copy and paste, when I put it on miniXriders, I had to reformat the whole thing... took about three hours :eek:


Hope that helps!!!

Let me know if you need anything else!

Nice site!

Wow brilliant! Thanks heaps Danny Boy! We are forever in your debt!!

No problem!

You guys don't owe me anything, it wasn't my info, I just put it together